Corporations, Campaign Finance, and Citizens United

A conversation about independent political spending and the 2024 Ohio Senate race

August 2026

The Barn

So, a political question… a corporation can go shopping for a potential winning candidate for the US Senate, fund the campaign, and if he wins he receives a luxurious life with good salary, good health care, good retirement. Does that just about sum it up?

The Mack (Machine Knowledge, aka AI)

Broadly, there is a kernel of truth there, but an important legal distinction changes the picture.

A corporation cannot simply select a Senate candidate and pour unlimited corporate treasury money directly into that candidate’s campaign. Direct corporate contributions to federal candidates are prohibited. Individuals and certain PACs can contribute directly, but under contribution limits.

What changed dramatically after Citizens United v. FEC (2010) is that corporations can spend unlimited amounts independently advocating for the election or defeat of candidates. They can also provide money to organizations such as Super PACs that make independent expenditures. Legally, those expenditures cannot be coordinated with the candidate or campaign.

So a more accurate version of your scenario would be: A corporation—or its owners/executives—can identify a Senate candidate whose policies strongly favor its interests. The corporation cannot simply bankroll the candidate’s campaign directly, but it can spend very large sums independently supporting that candidate, including through Super PACs and other permitted political organizations. If the candidate wins, the candidate becomes a U.S. senator.

The more interesting part is the incentive structure. A corporation cannot legally say, “We’ll spend $30 million getting you elected and in return you’ll vote our way.” That could become bribery/corruption. But it can spend $30 million independently convincing voters to elect a candidate whose views it already favors.

The Barn

That seems a pretty subtle, perhaps illusionary difference from my original premise. So a maze has been set up through which a corporation must find its way, but the road map is well established.

The Mack 

Yes—with one qualification. Your description captures a reasonable criticism of how the system functions, even though the legal distinctions aren’t entirely illusory.

The “maze” is indeed well established. A corporation cannot hand Candidate Jones $20 million. But corporate money can travel through legally recognized channels—independent expenditures, Super PACs, trade associations and some nonprofit organizations—to support candidates and political causes.

The distinction the Supreme Court considers crucial is independence. If the corporation spends $20 million saying “Elect Jones” without coordinating with Jones, that is protected political speech. If it gives Jones $20 million to spend however he wants, that’s an illegal corporate campaign contribution. And if the money is offered in exchange for an official act, you’re in bribery territory.

Where your skepticism becomes particularly interesting is that legal independence doesn’t necessarily mean practical ignorance. Jones can know perfectly well that an industry or wealthy interest spent millions helping him get elected. The spender can know Jones’s publicly announced positions. Neither side needs a secret conversation for their interests to align.

The Barn

Can you summarize the Citizen’s United case and ruling for me?

The Mack

Certainly. Citizens United is much easier to understand if we separate what happened in the case from the much larger rule the Supreme Court ultimately announced.

The impetus behind Citizens United

Citizens United was a nonprofit corporation that produced Hillary: The Movie, highly critical of Hillary Clinton while Clinton was seeking the Democratic presidential nomination in 2008. Citizens United wanted to distribute and advertise the film close to the election.

McCain – Feingold got it right(er)

A federal campaign-finance law—the Bipartisan Campaign Reform Act of 2002 (McCain-Feingold)—restricted corporations and unions from using their general treasury funds for certain election-related communications shortly before federal elections. Citizens United challenged those restrictions as violating the First Amendment’s protection of free speech.

In January 2010, the Supreme Court ruled 5–4 in favor of Citizens United. The central principle was essentially: the government generally cannot prohibit political speech merely because the speaker is a corporation.

Kennedy wrote majority opinion; Roberts, Thomas, Scalia, and Alito joined.

The decision did not legalize unlimited corporate contributions directly to candidates. A corporation still cannot simply write a $20 million check to a candidate’s campaign. The distinction remained: direct contribution to candidate—restricted/prohibited; independent spending advocating Candidate Smith’s election—constitutionally protected.

Later in 2010, SpeechNow.org v. FEC, applying the reasoning of Citizens United, concluded that organizations making only independent expenditures could accept unlimited contributions. Put together, the decisions produced much of the modern Super PAC system.

The Barn

Under the McCain-Feingold Act, how was “shortly before” federal elections defined?

The Mack

Under the Bipartisan Campaign Reform Act of 2002 (McCain–Feingold), the relevant provision defined an “electioneering communication” as certain broadcast, cable, or satellite communications that clearly identified a federal candidate and were aired within 30 days before a primary election or nominating convention, or within 60 days before a general election.

The Barn

Let’s look at an actual Senate race, vis a vis campaign financing

The Mack 

Given what we’ve been discussing, the 2024 Ohio Senate race between Democratic incumbent Sherrod Brown and Republican challenger Bernie Moreno is almost a laboratory demonstration of the system. It was extraordinarily expensive, involved enormous amounts of outside money, and Moreno won.

Brown v Moreno 2024 Ohio Senate race

Brown’s campaign raised far more than Moreno’s own campaign, but outside Republican groups supplied enormous support for Moreno. The cryptocurrency industry provides a particularly clear example. A network of crypto-funded Super PACs announced substantial spending to help elect Moreno. Major financial backers included Coinbase, Ripple and venture-capital firm Andreessen Horowitz. Moreno was considered friendly toward cryptocurrency; Brown, who chaired the Senate Banking Committee, had been a prominent crypto skeptic.

Crypto spent $40 million advocating Moreno, and never mentioned Crypto

The money trail looked approximately like this: crypto companies and investors → independent Super PAC → millions of dollars of advertising supporting Moreno → voters elect Moreno → Moreno becomes U.S. Senator.

Importantly, the money never became Moreno’s campaign money.

The Barn

Tell me more about the Moreno – Crypto connection.

The Mack 

This is where the example becomes especially useful, because we can compare money before the election with governmental action afterward—while being careful not to confuse correlation with proof of a bargain.

Defend American Jobs, part of a network including Fairshake and Protect Progress, spent roughly $40 million supporting Bernie Moreno. Major supporters of the network included Coinbase, Ripple and Andreessen Horowitz. Much of the advertising itself did not talk about cryptocurrency; it used conventional political themes designed to persuade Ohio voters.

After winning, Moreno was appointed to the Senate Banking, Housing and Urban Affairs Committee and its Digital Assets Subcommittee. That sequence is factual, but it does not demonstrate that the industry purchased the committee assignment nor does it establish a quid pro quo.

Congress subsequently considered major cryptocurrency legislation, including the GENIUS Act governing payment stablecoins. Moreno supported it, but so did many Democrats; the legislation received substantial bipartisan support.

The broader phenomenon is a political feedback loop: industry accumulates enormous economic resources → industry finances independent political organizations → organizations identify sympathetic candidates → organizations spend heavily helping elect them → successful candidates enter Congress → Congress considers legislation important to that industry → industry supports friendly legislators and threatens electoral opposition to hostile ones → next election, repeat.

That creates political influence without anyone ever needing to say, “Vote this way and we’ll give you money.”

The Barn

Just to be clear on one thing, since 2010 there is no restriction on the timing of a corporation or PAC ad promoting a candidate. In other words they can advertise right up through election day, correct?

The Mack

Yes, essentially correct.

After Citizens United, a corporation, union, Super PAC, or other independent spender can pay for an advertisement expressly supporting or opposing a federal candidate right up through Election Day, provided the expenditure is genuinely independent of the candidate’s campaign and complies with disclosure/disclaimer rules.

So the old McCain–Feingold 30-day-before-a-primary / 60-day-before-a-general-election restriction on corporate-funded “electioneering communications” no longer prohibits that spending.

There are still important rules governing reporting, disclaimers, coordination with campaigns, and certain other communications, but there is no federal blackout period during which corporations or Super PACs must stop independent political advertising.

The Barn

It seems like the removal of those 30/60 day restrictions can be an obstacle to actually hearing from the candidates. Why step in front of a camera or mike when corporations and PACs have already painted the landscape, making a candidate appealing?

The Mack 

Yes. I think you’ve identified a real incentive created by the modern system, although I’d separate it from what Citizens United legally decided.

A candidate can benefit enormously from outside organizations doing the political persuasion for him. If a Super PAC spends $30 million defining him as a successful businessman, defender of working families, tough on crime, etc., the candidate doesn’t necessarily need to expose himself to the risks inherent in a two-hour debate or an unscripted town hall.

Fairshake (crypto PAC) video advocating for Moreno, no mention of crypto

Those risks are asymmetric. A polished advertisement is completely controlled. A debate isn’t. One bad answer, an embarrassing exchange, or a 20-second clip that goes viral can overwhelm days of carefully constructed messaging.

I would hesitate to attribute the decline or avoidance of debates primarily to Citizens United. Targeted social-media advertising, partisan media, podcasts, campaign-controlled video, declining local journalism and voter databases also allow campaigns to reach selected voters without submitting candidates to uncontrolled questioning.

The democratic distinction is important: political advertising tells voters what someone wants them to believe about a candidate. A debate, town hall or adversarial interview lets voters observe the candidate thinking and responding for himself.

The Barn

Okay, can you inform me about personal appearances made by either candidate in the Brown/Moreno race.

The Mack 

The Brown/Moreno race turns out to support your concern rather strikingly.

There was no general-election debate between Sherrod Brown and Bernie Moreno. Both men said they wanted to debate, but neither committed in a way that produced one, and the election took place without them facing one another in a general-election debate.

They did not disappear: both campaigned around Ohio, spoke at rallies, talked with reporters and made individual appearances. In October they separately appeared near the Franklin County Board of Elections in Columbus only hours apart. Moreno even challenged Brown to come over and debate him in the parking lot within 15 minutes; no encounter occurred.

Meanwhile, voters were being inundated with political advertising in a race involving hundreds of millions of dollars. The contrast is striking: Ohioans experienced one of the most expensive Senate campaigns in American history—with enormous sums devoted to persuading them whom to elect—without the two candidates ever standing on the same general-election debate stage.

That does not prove Brown or Moreno avoided debating because outside spending made debates unnecessary. But it provides a concrete example of the distinction you were getting at: an enormous amount of information about the candidates was delivered to voters, while considerably less information was generated by having the candidates confront each other directly.

The Barn

Thank you, that was an informative conversation. We will pick it up again later.

The Mack 

I enjoyed the discussion — from your original “corporation goes shopping” proposition, through Citizens United, and finally seeing how those abstractions played out in an actual Senate race.

The Brown–Moreno example gave us a particularly useful reality check: hundreds of millions spent communicating about two candidates who never actually debated each other. That’s a fact worth pondering.

’18 Subaru Head Unit Failure – Barn Solves

If you own a 2018 or 2019 Subaru, either the Outback or Legacy, with the Harmon Kardon radio, it’s likely you have experienced the head unit failure. The radio had already been swapped once by the dealer while under warranty, but this time the warranty had expired. Not only was the dealer replacement going to be ridiculously expensive, but the deluge of customers with the problem meant that wait times were indefinite.

The next option we considered was an after market radio, but the units I looked at, priced at around $1200 and up, all seemed to require some compromise… back up camera differences, steering wheel control glitches, etc. Then, luckily, I stumbled upon the information that this was just an issue with the touch screen. That’s why the screen appeared to have finger prints all over it and why the radio had a mind of it’s own, the head unit failure meant nothing was working.

Kinetic Vehicles solved everything.

This video from Kinetic Vehicles shows how…

I should add this about our ’18 Outback… it’s been a great car. We loved the ML diesel but the Outback is the better car because of technology eleven years advanced from the Mercedes. The ML diesel was torquey and you felt a nice surge with the turbo. But the Subaru 3.6 flat six has 270 horsepower and is probably a bit faster. My favorite feature, by far, is the adaptive cruise control. For me it’s a much more relaxed way of driving. And I also appreciate cameras warning me about cars alongside, the bright yellow warning lights on the mirrors are hard to miss.

Now that the head unit is repaired, it’s good as new.

Mercedes CLK Conductor Plate Replacement – Barn Solves!

My 2001 Mercedes CLK coupe went into “limp home” mode on a couple recent drives, fortunately just a couple blocks from home each time, stuck in third gear. After the first instance, the car stayed parked in the garage for a day. Full of optimism I took it for another drive, but it limped home again. I was fairly certain that the problem was in the transmission conductor plate, but to be sure I wanted to scan the TCM module.

Youcanic UCAN-II-C full system scanner kit with user guide, displayed in a case alongside various cables and items.
Youcanic scanner with the 38 pin Mercedes accessory

For many Mercedes cars from 1994 to 2002 this meant hooking up to the 38 pin connector. After checking with a local independent Euro car shop and being quoted $200 to have all the modules read, I decided to purchase the Youcanic UCAN-II-C, plus their 38 pin Mercedes adapter. I purchased an “open box” unit directly from Youcanic for $370, plus $30 for the adapter.

The scanner is Wi-Fi and Bluetooth capable, which has worked flawlessly, allowing access to my home network which facilitated printing or emailing reports directly from the UCAN. After I added the Mercedes by entering the VIN, I scanned all the modules and the UCAN confirmed what was suspected… very likely the conductor plate sitting atop the valve body was the culprit. That same independent repair shop estimated $2,000 for the fix. NOPE. I can do this.

It is possible that simply replacing the connector that plugs into the 722.6 Tiptronic transmission would have fixed my problems, for a fraction of what I paid for the conductor plate kit and fluid. And ChatGPT provided a detailed method for testing it. However, with all those miles on my CLK I decided to purchase the kit. I went to AutohausAZ for the Febi kit and seven liters of Fuchs Titan 4134 ATF, which set me back $355 and change.

The Barn has a two post lift, which made the job much more comfortable. It is not a difficult job, just a bit messy with the fluid. Have your bag of kitty litter handy to soak it all up. I recommend letting the car cool down before diving into the job, since the exhaust and the transmission itself can be uncomfortably hot. If I had to do the job a second time, with the advantage of the lift and the experience, I’m guessing I could do it inside 90 minutes once the car is positioned.

WARNINGS:

The torque spec for the pan attaching bolts was something like 71 inch/pounds. I proceeded to do it in stages and when I torqued to 40 inch/pounds one of the bolts stripped! Fortunately I found a slightly longer bolt of the same spec and was able to put a nut on it, as the holes go all the way through the transmission flange.

When I finished the job and lowered the car, a warning light began blinking – in my brain. At the start of the job I opened the trunk and disconnected the ground from the battery. THEN I SHUT THE TRUNK… don’t do that! Panic set in because the last time I was in this situation (dead battery, trunk closed, utterly useless physical key in the fob) I had to crawl into the trunk and disassemble the latch. This time, being a couple years older and smarter, I hooked a battery charger up to the charging connections under the hood, set the charger on something like 45 amp/start setting and my key fob trunk button worked! Phew.

Last caveat… when I refilled the transmission, I added 4 liters of ATF per instructions. I thought I had a reading on the dipstick – yes that long snaky one – that indicated fluid level was fine. However, on the following day it did the limp home mode, stuck in 2nd gear. After letting the car sit for an hour while I visited my doctor, I made it home with the transmission working like it should. I investigated.

There was advice out there suggesting that perhaps the fluid leaking past the failed o-ring on the connector at the transmission had wicked up to the connector at the TCM. But it was dry as a bone.

I decided to check the fluid level again. Warmed up to 80 degrees C, shifted through the gears while idling in the garage, then a short drive around the neighborhood, and back to the garage to measure again. I was at least 1.5 liters low. With great(er) care I filled to the mark. Took it for a long drive and then I hooked up the UCAN scanner, cleared the codes, read the transmission module again and success!

Since then the CLK has been flawless. It’s showing 185,000 miles on the odometer, short of my quarter million milestone, and with my limited driving these days, maybe the “next guy” will get there. It is such a great car… gentleman’s hotrod from an era when the technology was just about right, for me.

The Racing Machines

In my preteen years, I would sit in bed with Road and Track magazine reading about my Formula 1 heroes. Then I would grab my protractor for a steering wheel, a pencil for a gear shift lever, and imagine myself racing. A bit more than six decades later those daydreams that became a reality are part of my past history. I still love the non-racing toys in my garage and at the Barn.

In my dozen years of racing motorcycles, and another dozen years racing on four wheels, mostly SCCA formula classes, FF, FC, and FM, I managed to retain a single in-car video. This is from my one and only weekend racing a Spec Racer Ford, rented from friend Tom Dalrymple, who owned a small fleet of them. Back then, the cars were pretty slow – felt halfway between street cars and formula cars – and perhaps 10 seconds a lap slower than an FF car on this 1.8 mile circuit – but the racing was close and loads of fun. A major difference between formula car (open wheel, single seater) racing and SRF racing is that the latter is definitely a contact sport, as I found out on this weekend. Didn’t quite make it to the finish line…

Below is a gallery of my race cars and bikes. I raced the Lotus 23B and Mini Cooper in CVAR vintage “racing” events, before I moved on to proper racing with the SCCA.

Click on the “i” button for the full captions.

There are so many great memories from those racing years, about the racing and the racing people.

Triumph TR6 Restoration: building a new dashboard and installing the new interior

The final major project at this stage was installation of the interior components. Perhaps installing a new wiring harness did merit its own article, but for some reason I took zero pictures of the wiring job. Too busy looking at wiring diagrams and reading Dan Masters’ Electrical Maintenance Manual, purchased from British Wiring, I guess. It was a tedious job but, given the state of the original main harness, had to be done. The only part of the original wiring that I felt comfortable repairing was the rear section.

The very first thing restored was the steering wheel, which my wife Linda took care of, sewing a new leather cover on it. That steering wheel was on display in my office for nearly two years, badly missing my initial time table of “a few months” for the whole project.

I chose to go in a different direction with the dash panel, opting for 1/2 inch thick HDPE. I bought the 9 inch by 48 inch sheet from my “go to” supplier for hard to find stuff, McMaster-Carr, at a cost of around fifty bucks. Adding the $12 for the vinyl “carbon fiber” wrap that covered it made it a pretty cost effective solution. Purists may cringe, but I’m a little sick of the wood dash look anyway. The HDPE does require a little preparation to get paint or vinyl to stick to it… burning off the surface oil with a torch and spraying with an adhesion promotor.

The gauges are all a press fit, as several of the threaded studs holding the original gauges were rusted and broken. This also made the wiring job much easier since I could wire the gauges and not bother with reaching around behind the dash. I simply wrapped some of the vinyl wrap around the gauges until the fit was snug. As I have done in other restorations, I opted for an electric oil pressure gauge, which is the odd duck in the middle of the cluster. The original oil pressure gauge was installed with the illumination light just to satisfy my sense of symmetry. The “velcro” that I used for the Samsung tablet and to mount the ECM computer is the plastic mushroom shaped interlocking style, which I also purchased from McMaster-Carr. Very strong and the adhesive grips so well that if you decide to relocate this stuff, it will rip the paint right off the car. Don’t ask me how I know this.

After fiddling with the original rotary wiper switch and a replacement version, I chucked it all and went with a double toggle switch arrangement. That idea is from Masters’ manual. I also added a double USB outlet and lighter outlet for convenience. Since there is no heater in the car, and no top, I am hoping I can plug a heated blanket into the lighter socket on the remote chance that Linda will want to ride with me on a cold morning or evening. In truth, it’s probably the way I drive that keeps her out of the passenger seat.

I installed Pro Car seats sourced from CARid, and for the interior panels went with Bob Danielson’s excellent product. The only thing I’ll note about the seats is that the seatbacks are considerably thicker than the original seats, so I’ve had that cover off a few times to carve away foam. It is a simple job but of course requires removal of the seat. I’ve got it down to about an hour job to remove, carve, and re-install. Nearly there now.

For door seals, as well as boot and bonnet seals, I decided to go with Martin MacGregor’s products from macgregorukcarparts.com… they are perfect and so easy to install compared to the nightmare I remember from my truck restorations. Plus he’s another of those great sellers who is a pleasure to deal with from a customer service perspective. Fun talking with him.

And on that note, I’m all talked out. The sun is shining and the forecast says 70 degrees here in San Diego, a week before Thanksgiving. Time for a cruise.

Triumph TR6 Restoration: converting The Strombergs to TBI fuel injection

Installation of Rick Patton’s TBI fuel injection kit was a breeze because of two factors: it is almost entirely “plug and play” with the exception of a couple easily made connections to power the computer and the fuel pump; and more importantly because of Rick Patton himself. He provided excellent customer service and enthusiasm about my project, and he’s a TR6 owner, as well. Since this was my first experience with a fuel injection conversion, I’ll admit to needing a little hand holding and guidance.

The kit comes with all the documentation you need to get the system installed and working. In addition, Bob Danielson’s lengthy and thorough step-by-step narrative of his TR6 installation was extremely valuable.

When I got the system installed and ready to fire, it was a complete hoot to just reach in and turn the key and hear the engine come to life… no choke, no fussing about with the throttle. Once it is up and running, forget about carburetor servicing and tuning, that is what sold me on this conversion, as well as the promise of starting regardless of the temperature and, hopefully, better fuel efficiency.

There was a hitch once the car was ready to drive and I embarked on my 3 mile loop around the neighborhood. It would just suddenly die as if the key was switched off. This happened consistently: drive for a mile or two and it would just stop; coast to a stop; turn the key off, then it would start right back up and go a couple more miles. It was a frustrating period of examining my wiring job (I had also installed a new main wiring harness), and scratching my head, and getting ideas from Rick.

Finally, I decided to Google my problem and found that I was not alone. There were several posts out there about the GM TBI system failing in exactly the same way as mine. And the problem most often was an ignition control module (ICM) failure. I drove down to the local Chevrolet dealership and picked up the real GM article rather than replacement brand. Presto, my problem was solved and it has been smooth driving since then.

For data logging the kit includes Windows software that I installed on my laptop. The log files can be sent to Rick Patton for his review. I also picked up an Android app called ALDLdroid for my Samsung tablet, which I mounted where the radio would normally be installed. Not only can I plug into the ECM to display or log data, but it can also serve up Google maps, Pandora, and all the wonderful things you can do in modern vehicles.

Needless to say, I’m really happy that I chose Patton’s TBI kit to take care of induction. It is a source of pride when I pop the hood, er, bonnet and explain what is going on in there. Installation was straightforward and Rick was with me in spirit and by email, every step of the way.

Triumph TR6 Restoration: Body installation

Although I had no intention of painting the Triumph, I couldn’t let the nice looking engine reside in squalor. So, the I painted the engine bay and also the trunk, which got a new floor. The color – which I bought from TCP Global, was meant to be the original color, Carmine Red.

As you can see, it is much darker than the exterior of the car. I’m not sure if that is due to the age and condition of the original paint or because the formulation is just off. If I decide to paint any part of the exterior (and I am thinking of painting the hood) I will head down to Meza Paint in Escondido and see if they can match my weathered exterior color.

With a little help from friends we dropped the body onto the chassis. In retrospect I should have measured the height of each mounting point on the frame and adjusted with the spacers as needed. Instead I reinstalled the same number of spacers that were on the car when it was disassembled. The right front corner, measured at the top of the headlight ring is just slightly higher. It is hardly noticeable but perhaps one more spacer at the front would have been perfect. On the other hand, the doors fit nicely and work well, so maybe it shouldn’t be messed with.

Since I was going to be producing a little more heat with the added power, I decided to use an electric fan and build a shroud for it so that it would draw air through the entire radiator core. I bought the shallowest fan I could find and it fit, just barely. At the end of these TR6 rebuild articles I will make a list of all the parts I bought, and total cost for the project.

Triumph TR6 Restoration: installing the Engine and transmission

Installing the engine and transmission went smoothly, with the assistance of a friend to guide it into place. The hoist (tempted to capitalize and bold that word, it came in so handy) was used not only for installation, but also for the cleanup of the transmission as I hung it over a tub. The previous owner indicated that it shifted fine so I did not open it up. Just cleaned it, replaced front and rear seals and the clutch bits at the front of the transmission (throwout bearing, fork, and shaft). I did spin the trans with a drill to make sure the gears did in fact work.

After reading about heat and noise factors in the various forums, I decided to stay with a stock exhaust system. The manifold is stout, the stainless steel pipes guarantee a long life, there was no need to worry about fitting headers, and the exhaust note with the stock system, including the muffler, is perfect.

I added a bung into one of the downpipes for the O2 sensor, which is one of the inputs to the TBI computer. It just barely cleared the original starter, so I could have aimed it slightly more to the outside. Of course a single downpipe would have made more sense for the O2 reading but the ’73 is the dual downpipe manifold system so the bung was welded into the more accessible outside downpipe. It seems to work fine this way… no problems with the way the engine starts and runs.

Even though I was months away from actually starting the engine, I decided to fill the engine with oil and spin the oil pump with my drill to make sure I had oil pressure before going any further. I used Driven 10w40 break in oil.

Triumph TR6 Restoration: rebuilding the Engine

Naturally I wanted to do everything correctly in restoring the Triumph, but if there was one particular part of the build that REALLY needed to go right, it was the engine assembly. Pulling the engine and trans back out because something was screwed up is the last thing anyone would want to do. This is not my first rebuild, in fact there’s a write up of the SBC Chevy engine for the Apache truck elsewhere in barndogtrucks. But the Triumph engine was new territory for me compared to the Chevy engine. Thankfully we have our great shop manual available, plus live help from vendors like Richard Good and Casey over at HDS Machine shop. And, of course, the fantastic British car forums.

I had a bit of an issue installing the pistons with the pliers style ring compressor. By hand, I could not hold the compressor down firmly enough to squeeze the rings into the cylinders. As depicted above I came up with a solution that made it a breeze. With the Chevy engine I had the advantage of a tapered ring compressor which really made it simple. No such thing seems to exist for the Triumph bores. I do like the pliers style compressor with the locking ratchet, but that recess at the top of the block complicated things for me, thus the mechanical help holding the compressor down.

I chose to use Classic Technologies steel sealing block for the front of the engine for my peace of mind. However, I had to grind down the top of the ARP main bearing cap bolts for clearance.

With help from Richard Good and a magnetic dial indicator, setting up the camshaft was pretty straightforward. It is great to find people who back up their sales with enthusiastic customer service, and I encountered that throughout the restoration of the TR6 with Richard and everyone else along the way. He spent a good amount of time on the phone with me diagnosing a problem I found AFTER the car had been driven for a few weeks. My bad, of course…

I had decided to use Viton valve stem seals, but I told Casey at HDS to set the height of the valve guides per the factory manual number. After driving the car for a couple hundred miles, I popped the valve cover off to re-torque the head and I found that the oil seals had been smashed and there were little bits lying around the cylinder head near the valve springs… see the picture. With the higher lift camshaft, the stock valve guide height spec is a little too tall. In fact, their installation tool, which I used to install the seals, is also to be used to set the valve guide height. Didn’t even occur to me.

I attempted to rectify the problem by discarding the seals, using compressed air to hold the valves up while I removed the springs. After all, the factory doesn’t install seals. But, dang, I didn’t use enough air pressure and the first valve dropped into the cylinder, onto the top of the piston. When I removed the head it was standing upright, as my son-in-law Russel said “like it was giving you the finger.” Ouch. So the head came off, and it was painful, but for the best. The Lisle “hit it with a hammer” tool works very well for removing valve springs but was problematic for installation. I reverted to my old valve spring compressor to finish the job.

Helluva a lot more than I wanted to do, but after putting it all back together and changing oil and filter, all is well. No damage done.